Welt guiding and cutting



Feb 14, 1956 H. R. RUHR 2,734,469

WELT GUIDING AND CUTTING Filed March 23, 1954 5 sheets-sheet 1 Inventor" Hemrzch Flc/lara' Hu/zr Feb' 14 1956 H. R. RUHR 2,734,469

WELT GUIDING AND CUTTING Filed March 25, 1954 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Feb. 14, 1956 A H. R. RUHR WELT GUIDING AND CUTTING 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed March 23, 1954 Invent-0r Hem ric/1 Ric/10m lfb/1f" Feb. 14, 1956 H, R, RUHR 2,734,469

WELT GUIDING AND CUTTING Filed March 25, 1954 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 Feb. 14, 1956 H. R. RUHR WELT GUTDTNG AND CUTTING 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed March 25, 1954 Inventar Hezhrzlcz Richard' ELI/zr vUnited States Patent WELT GUIDING AND CUTTING Heinrich Richard Ruhr, Frankfurt am Main, Germany,

assignor, by mesne assignments, to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application March 23, 1954, Serial No. 418,190 Claims priority, application Germany April 27, 1953 21 Claims. (Cl. 112-44) The present invention relates to machines for feeding and fastening welts to shoes or similar articles, and more particularly to improvements in devices for enabling the welt to be severed easily and accurately while operating upon a shoe having a sewed heel seat, in a manner to cause the iinal end of welt to butt and match the end of welt first attached to the shoe.

ln the manufacture of a sewed heel seat shoe having an insole formed with a sewing rib extending from the forepart entirely around the heel seat, the welt and upper are sewn with a continuous line of stitches as distinguished from the use of an ordinary Goodyear insole having a sewing rib terminating at the heel seat. With a sewed heel seat shoe it is desirable to sever the welt ends with a cut at such position that when the iinal end is laid in abutting relation against the one first attached to the shoe the cut` surfaces will match each other to form a smooth inconspicuous joint across which stitches may be inserted. Heretofore, sewed heel seat shoes have required a hand welt severing and butting operation apart from the welt sewing operation. The usual practice is to sew such a shoe almost entirely around its sewing rib, stopping at least an inch before the end of the welt iirst attached to the shoe is reached. The shoe is then disengaged from the machine and the Welt severed,

' leaving an inch or two of overlap between the iinal and first attached ends. The final welt end is then severed with a cut forming a bevel or otherwise, and if the iirst end does not already have a bevel. cut its angle is matched to abut that of the nal end. After butting the ends of weit at a proper position to form a joint-with matching faces and angles ofbevel cuts the shoe is returned to the machine, the unsewed end of welt being reinserted within the guide and a few stitches sewed across the joint. 4Occasionally it is possible for a dexterous operator to bevel cut and butt the ends of the welt without withdrawing the shoe wholly from the machine, Neverf theless, under the most advantageous conditions butting and matching the ends of a welt in a sewed heel seat shoe has heretofore been a time-consuming exacting operation without any assurance of uniform results.`

It is an object of the present invention to provide a sewed heel seat sewing machine with means for enabling a welt to be attached uniformly and quickly with ends in accurately butted relation. Another object is to provide a welt severing and butting knife mounted in a welt sewing machine to enable insertion of a single continuous seam without the necessity of withdrawing the shoe from the machine or of employing a separate time-consuming welt butting operation for matching the severed welt ends. Other objects are to simplify and improve the operation of a sewed heel seat shoe inseam sewing machine by reducing the time required to direct a welt properly to the sewing point and to sever the ends of the welt so directed with an accurately butted joint. VFurther objects are to provide a machine of the type referred F to with adjustments arranged for rendering the machine ICC capable of producing uniform results in forming a butted joint between matched ends of a Welt with substantial elimination of waste in welt. ln this connection it is a subordinate purpose of the invention to provide such machine with additional adjustments whereby the ends of welt applied to a shoe may be beveled uniformly with one of a number of different angles to suit the conditions met in construction of different types of shoes.

The present embodiment of the invention fuliills the objects above enumerated and is illustrated in connection with a shoe inseam sewing machine having in its frame the usual stitch forming devices actuated by a main sewing shaft and provided with a main welt guide mounted in the usual way, but in addition the machine is equipped with a supplemental welt guide spaced in advance of the main welt guide and mounted in approximate alinement therewith for yielding movement toward and from a shoe being operated upon independently of the position of the main welt guide, so that the supplemental guide may always follow the contour of the shoe as it is fed past the main welt guide, and being located in advance of the main welt guide, the supplemental guide provides a readily visible indicator for the operator in bringing the machine to rest uniformly at a point where the welt in the supplemental guide overlaps the end of welt first attached to the shoe. The supplemental welt guide includes additional means to assist the operator in sever ing the welt, after stopping the machine at the point stated, in a manner which will result in a smoothly matched joint between accuratelybutted end faces of the welt without withdrawing the shoe or welt from the machine before completing an uninterrupted continuous seam extending across the butted joint. While the advantages of the invention are of particular utility in connection with a shoe inseam sewing machine, there are other types of shoe machine in which the invention may be employed with advantage, such as those having feeding and fastening devices other than those for inserting an inseam and those for performing an auxiliary operation on the welt other than severing it before a predetermined point of operation of the fastening devices is reached. In the preferred form of the invention, however, a knife is mounted for movement in the supple* mental welt guide to cut the welt in close` proximity to a shoe by use of a hand operated member connected to the knife, so that an accurate position for the cut in the welt may be determined before it is severed, by reference to the end of welt rst attached to the shoe.

These and other features of the invention, as hereinafter described and claimed will be apparent from the following detailed specification taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a sectional detail plan view of parts of the frame and some of the operating and welt severing devices in a sewing machine embodying the present invention, taken with the parts shown in positions assumed after the welt on a shoe has been severed at an angle to form an accurately butted joint with the end previ ously sewn to the shoe;

Fig. 2 is a similar detail view in elevation looking from the right side, partly broken away and in section, of the machine shown in Fig. l including the frame, the main sewing shaft, the driving control and treadle operated connections;

Fig. 3 is a sectional side view of parts of the machine taken along the line III-Ill of Fig. l;

Fig. 4 is a sectional detail view taken along the line IV-IV of Fig. 1; v

Fig. 5 is a detail view in front elevation `of some of the parts shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 6 is a sectional detail View of the welt severing knife guide taken along the line VI--VI of Fig. l;

Patented Feb. 14, 1956` Fig. 7 is a sectional detail view of the knife guide taken along the line VII-VH of Fig. 1;

Figs. 8, 9, and 10 are sectional plan views of the welt severing knife showing positions with ditferent adjustments in the angle at which the knife cuts the welt;

Fig. ll is a detail plan view illustrating a modified form of a supplemental welt guide and knife mounting to be employed in place of those illustrated in Fig. l;

Fig. 12 is a sectional detail view of a lock for preventing movement of the guide while severing the welt as viewed along the line XllXH of Fig. 1l; and

Fig. 13 is a further sectional view of the parts shown in Fig. 11 as viewed along the line XHI-Xill.

The illustrated machine is generally similar to the welt shoe inseam sewing machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 487,214, granted November 29, 1892, in the name of Andrew F. Eppler. The machine is ntended for fastening the parts of a Goodyear welt type of shoe wherein is employed a ribbed insole, the rib of which is continuous and extends from the forepart entirely around the heel seat of the shoe, the shoe being fed by the fastening devices. The heel end on a shoe of this type is illustrated in Fig. l, the insole being indicated at 2 formed with a continuous sewing rib 4. The feeding and fastening devices of the machine include a curved hook needle 6, a curved awl S, and other stitch forming devices for inserting a chain stitch inseam 1t), the chain of which is laid along the inside of the sewing rib 4. in fastening the shoe parts together the stitches pass through an upper and lining 12 and a welt 14 extending through a main welt guide 16 mounted for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct the welt into said point of operation in the usual manner. The parts of the machine thus referred to are mounted for operation in a main frame 18 and actuated to perform their respective operations through connections and cams mounted on a main sewing shaft 20 shown in Fig. 2. The welt guide 16 is pressed yieldingly against the shoe upper 12 and has an opening through which the welt passes, the welt opening extending in parallel relation with the upper. The welt guide i6 also has a transverse opening through which the needle and awl move to penetrate the welt and draw it into close conformity with the upper. During the major portion of each sewing cycle the welt guide is locked against movement so that the shoe is pressed against it and swung about it as a pivot center in accordance with the varying curvatures of the shoe during its presentation to the machine to assist in guiding it as the operation progresses. The machine also has a back gage 22 mounted in the frame 12%.

A common practice in sewing the heel seat of a shoe is to apply the leading end of a welt to its inside, shank portion and fasten the parts together with a seam extending entirely about the heel seat. As the-point of sewing operation approaches the end of welt irst attached to the shoe the operator of the machine reduces the speed of the sewing shaft 20 until a point is reached an inch or so in advance of the iirst welt end. The machine is then stopped and the shoe withdrawn from the machine carrying with it a substantial length of welt. The operator severs the welt with the use of a hand-held knife with the unsewed end extending substantially beyond and overlapping the end of welt rst attached to the shoe to insure an adequate supply for butting operations. The unsewed end of the welt is then laid manually against the irst attached end of welt and the surplus extending beyond the first end is trimmed from the unsewed end. A painstaking operator will trim the first end to form a beveled surface and will match the angle of cut on the final end to that on the first end so that when the two ends are brought into abutment a smooth inconspicuous joint will be formed. After finally trimming and butting the welt ends, the operator reinserts the nal unsewed end of welt into the welt opening of the guide 16 4 and reapplies the shoe to the sewing point in the machine. The machine is restarted and a short seam inserted to fasten the final free end of welt to the shoe, the last few stitches of the seam preferably crossing the butted joint to hold the welt ends in place.

When a less exacting welt butting operation is required an operator will not stop sewing before the first end of welt is reached but will continue until several stitches have been inserted in the first end of welt, the welt then being laid in two thicknesses against the upper for a short distance. The shoe is next withdrawn from the machine together with a short length of welt and the welt severed to free the shoe. In order to provide a semblance of a welt butting operation, it is then necessary to Whittle away the iinal end of welt sewn to the shoe until only a single thickness remains. In so doing the final end of welt is reduced to present a smooth appearance and the last few stitches are cut away. Unless extraordinary care is exercised the underlying stitches securing the first end of welt attached to the shoe also may be damaged and, in any event, no stitches remain intact across the butted joint.

Both procedures outlined above for butting the ends of welt on a sewed seat shoe result in substantial waste of welt, non-uniform appearance in the joint between the welt ends, an additional painstaking welt butting operation, and reapplication of the shoe to the machine if the butted ends of the welt are to be secured reliably with stitches extending across the joint.

In a machine embodying the present invention convenient means are provided for giving an accurate, readily visible indication to the operator of the best position for stopping the sewing operations on a shoe se that uniformly desirable results in butting the ends of a welt may be secured in a sewed heel seat shoe. Accordingly, the present machine is equipped with a supplemental welt guide 23 mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide 16 for yielding sliding movement in the machine frame toward and from engagement with the shoe being operated upon independent of the movement of the main welt guide, the supplemental guide thereby being enabled to follow the contour and curvatures of the shoe as it is fed past and swung about the main welt guide as a pivot center.

The supplemental welt guide 23 is provided with conveniently arranged mounting means for directing a welt severing knife or other similar auxiliary operation performing means against the welt passing through the supplemental guide before the sewing point is reached so that the welt may be severed without withdrawing the shoe or the welt from the machine, the operator of the machine no longer being dependent upon close inspection of the welt while butting it to provide a uniformly smooth joint. In the illustrative form of the invention a manually actuated knife is carried by the mounting means and the supplemental welt guide is locked against yielding movement while the knife is being operated.

For rotating the sewing shaft 20 and for bringing it to rest effectively in a predetermined position with the stitch forming devices disengaged from the work so that a shoe being operated upon may be removed conveniently, the machine isprovided with a treadle controlled driving and stopping mechanism. To stop the main sewing shaft 20 it has secured to it 'a cam 24 (see Fig. 2) acting to time the application of a brake shoe 26 against a brake drum (not shown) also secured to the sewing shaft 20. The brake shoe is mounted on a pivot 28 carried by an arm of a lever 30 fulcrumed by a fixed shaft 32 on the machine frame 18 and a rearwardly extending arm of the lever has pivotally connected to it the upper end of a vertical treadle actuated rod 34.

To start rotation of the sewing shaft the treadle rod 34 is raised and a cam lever 36 rotatably mounted on the shaft 32 has a lug engaged by a pair ofset screws 38 on the lever 30 to cause the cam lever 36 to rockin a counterclockwise direction. Connected to an upwardly lextending arm of the cam lever is a forked Wedge 40 acting upon a driving clutch on the shaft 20 in a conventional manner. Whenthe treadle rod 34 is lowered the cam lever 36 rocks in a clockwise direction, as viewed in Fig. 2, to disengage the clutch and to bring a roll 42 on the cam lever into engagement with the cam 24 under the action of a sping pressed rod 44 through which the pin 28 passes. As the sewing shaft continues to rotate, the roll 42 rst engages a circular portion of the cam 24, holding the brake shoe 26 out of action. When the sewing shaft rotates sufficiently to bringa flat portion of the cam into engagement with the roll the brake shoe rises against its drum under the force of the spring pressed rod 44 to bring the sewing shaft quickly to rest.

The supplemental welt guide 23 is constructed in the form of a channeled block, across the channel of which pass two parallel pins 46 and 48 (see Fig. 8). These pins are spaced away from the inner surface of the channel in the guide a sufficient distance to admit the welt 14. To maintain the welt in accurate widthwise position, the upper side wall of the channel in the guide is threaded to receive a set screw 50 secured in place by a lock nut 52. The lower end of the set screw is adjusted to bear on the upper edge of the welt in its proper position in the guide 23 and a curved leaf spring 51 at the opposite side of the welt presses it upwardly against the set screw. The lower wall of the channel in the guide 23 has a threaded opening engaged by a threaded end of a cap screw 54 passing loosely through a carrier plate 56 to which the guide is attached.

Referring to Figs. 3 and 4, the means for mounting the supplemental welt guide for sliding movement toward and from a shoe being operated upon independently of the main welt guide 16 comprises the carrier plate 56 pivotally mounted for swinging movement on a pin 58 fast to an angle bracket 60 secured to the forward end of a rod 62 mounted for loose lengthwise movement in a lug 64 extending laterally from the light side of the frame 18 and a guide opening and in a block 66 having a split clamp portion surrounding a bar 68 bolted to the machine frame 18. To secure the block 66 to the bar 68 it carries a clamp bolt 67. The rod 62 is surrounded at its forward end by a coil spring 70 compressed between the lug 64 and the bracket 60, the action of the spring 70 causing the supplemental welt guide to be pressed yieldingly against the shoe during sewing operations. At its rearward end the rod 62 is threaded and carries check nuts 71 to limit the action of the spring 70.

To insure rectilinear movement of the carrier plate 56 and to prevent its rotation about the pin 58 while the operator severs the welt the forward end of the bar 68 has passing loosely through it a pair of parallel spaced vertical studs 72, best shown in Fig. 3. The upper ends of the studs 72 are secured in the right ends of a pair of parallel horizontal links 74 and 76, which in turn are pivotally connected at spaced points to the carrier plate'. The point of pivotal connection between the link 76 and the carrier plate 56 is formed by a pin 78 (see Fig. l) passing loosely through the plate and being secured to the left end of the underlying link 76. The point of pivotal connection between the link 74 and the carrier plate is formed by a clamp bolt 80 (see also Fig. 4) extending through a slot 82 in the carrier plate and passing loosely through the left end of the link 74. The bolt 80 has a central shoulder bearing against the under surface of the carrier plate to enable it to be clamped in fixed position to the slotted portion of the plate or to be released for adjusting the plate through a limited swinging movement about the pin 58.

To lock the supplemental welt guide against yielding movement toward and from the shoe when the main sewing shaft 20 is brought to rest the rearward portion of the rod 62 (see Figs. 2 and 3) is cut away to form a flattened surface across which are milled a series of parallel teeth 84 engaged by similar teeth at the end of a locking plunger 86 slidingly mounted in the block 66 within a passage formed at right angles to the rod 62. The locking plunger is maintained yieldingly in engagement with the slide rod 62 through the action of an eX- tension spring 88 connected between pins on the plunger and the block 66, respectively. For actuating the locking plunger its upper rearward end is threaded into a slotted nut 89 (Fig. 2). through the slot in which passes a pin 90 secured in a downwardly projecting portion of the treadle rod connected lever 30. The pin 90 is so located on the lever 30 that upon raising the treadle rod to start the machine in operation the pin engages the upper end of the slot and withdraws the locking plunger from engagement with the slotted rod 62. At the end of a sewing operation the treadle rod 34 is lowered and the locking plunger 86 engages the rod 62 to lock it and the supplemental welt guide from forward or rearward movement.

The mounting means for the Welt severing knife comprises a cylindrical member 92 (see Figs. 1 and 6) rotatably mounted in a fixed vertical position within a block 94 clamped by a cap screw 96 passing through a slot 98 in the carrier plate 56 and into threaded engagement with the block 94. To enable the position of the supplemental welt guide to be adjusted the clamping screw 96 is released. The cylindrical Vmember has a diametrical slot in which the knife indicated at 100, slides and the knife has beveled side edges and a chisel shaped cutting edge at one end. The knife fits within a recessed portion of the block 94 and engages one end of the slot in the cylin drical member. To prevent displacement of the cylindrical member, the lower end of the member engages the upper surface of the carrier plate 56 and the knife, being retained within the recessed portion of the block 94, prevents withdrawal of the member. At the upper end of the slot in the cylindrical knife mounting member is a conical roll 102 rotatable on a pin 104 passing across the slot in the mounting member to guide the upper beveled edge of the knife. By the use of the rotatable knife mounting member the knife may be reciprocated toward and from engagement with the welt in the guide 23 and the angle of engagement with respect to the welt changed to suit the type of work operated upon. l

For securing the welt severing knife in a relatively fixed angular relation to the welt passing through the supplemental guide 23, the end of the knife is clamped edgewise in a split portion of an arm 106 (see Figs. l and 5), pivotally connected to a knife actuating lever 108 rotatably mounted on a stud 110 passing across a forked portion of the lever and through a passage in the carrier plate 56 surrounded by the fork of the lever. The clamping action of the arm 106 is obtained by a screw 112 passing loosely through one part of the arm into threaded engagement with an adjacent part forming the clamp portion. To facilitate quick removal of the knife for sharpening or other purposes the armr106 is pivotally connected to the lever 108 by a retractable pin 114 having a knurled head. To hold the knife out of engagement with the welt in the supplemental guide during sewing operations a forwardly projecting pin on the arm 106 is engaged by one end of a tension spring 116, the other end of which is bent about a similar pin projecting from the axis of the stud 110. Rotation of the knife actuating lever 108 is effected by a hand operated member comprising a right angle rod 118, one end of which is secured in a split clamp portion of the lever 108, a pair of clamp screws acting to clamp the rod 118 and the other end of the rod has a threaded section of reduced diameter to receive a spherical hand knob 122.

To actuate the knife 100 through its Welt severing operation the operator grips the knob 122 forcing it rearwardly. Inasmuch as the carrier plate 56 on which the knife actuating lever 108 is rotatably mounted is locked at this time, the point of operation of the knife is not shifted by rearward movement of the knob 122. To limit 7 the welt severing movement of the knife and to prevent damage to a shoe upper, the knife lever 168 carries a set screw 12d (Fig. l) arranged to engage an edge of the carrier plate 56 when the knife has reached its fully operated position. To clear the cutting edge of the knife after it reaches its fully operated position, the suppremental welt guide within which it acts is slotted at 126 directly in front of the cutting edge of the knife. For obtaining the most reliable Welt severing action the knife mounting member 92 is adjusted to cause the cutting edge of the l-:nife to move against the right edge of the siot 126, as shown in Figs. 8, 9, and l0. This adjustment or the knife against the edge of the slot is obtained by loosening the cap screw 96 and shifting the block 94 on the carrier plate until the desired relationship is obtained.

In order to change the angle of the knife with relation to the length of t e welt in the guide 23 and the angle of bevel at the cut ends of the welt, the fulcrum stud Mii for the knife actuating lever 108 is capable of being shifted on the carrier plate 56 selectively to one of a number of different positions. For this purpose there are three passages 25, 13G and 132 (Fig. l) formed in an are along the carrier plate 56 equal distances from the knife mounting member 92. ifhen the stud 11i) is located in the passage 12S, as shown, the relation of the knife to the welt in the guide 23 is indicated by an angie in Fig. 8 of approximately 25. With the stud il@ in the passage l/tl the angle formed by the knife is 35, as shown in Fig. 9, and with the stud i1() in the passage 132 the angle formed bythe knife is 45, as shown in Fig. lO.

ln operating upon a sewed heel seat shoe with the machine of the present invention, the first end of the welt is attached to the sewing rib 4, beginning at the inside shank portion of the shoe regardless of whether a left or right shoe is being sewn. The shoe shown in Fig. l is a right shoe and the welt running from the end first attached to the shoe extends entirely around the heel seat. in sewing a left shoe the welt extends from the end first attached entirely around the forepart of the shoe but with either right or left shoe the sewin'Y operation continued until the heel seat is sewn and the end of welt rst attached approaches the sewing point. With the use of the present supplemental welt guide 23 yieldingly enga ged with the shoe, the operator of: the machine is given a clear visual indication of the best position in which to stop sewing operations. Accordingly, as the initial stitch of the seam approaches the knife receiving slot in the welt mide Z3, the machine is slowed down and is readily brought to rest in the position indicated in Fig. l. In this position the knife 1%3 may be actuated to for, t bevel cut the welt which will match exactly with the bevel cut on the end of welt iirst attached to the shoe provided the first attached end has already been cut with a similar bevel during a previous operation of the knife. Thus, there will be no waste of time or welt in obtaining the desired results, and it is unnecessary for the operator to sever the sewing thread or remove the shoe from the machine before completing the seam. After severing the welt the machine is restarted and a sufficient number of stitches inserted to overlap the butted joint formed by the severed welt ends.

Under some conditions it may be desirable to match the first and haal ends of the welt more accurately than is possible with the supplementary welt guide of the machine shown in Fig. l, particularly when long stitches are being inserted or when the welt is being severed with a cut of 45 or `greater.

In the modification of the machine shown in Figs. ll to i3, inclusive, the clamp screw for retaining the supplemental welt guide carrier plate in adjusted position relatively to the sliding rod 62 on which it is mounted for swinging movement is replaced by a quick acting lock so arranged tl at the supplemental welt guide may be moved along the length of welt `toward and from the point of operation of the stitch forming devices and the welt severed within less that a stitch length of the end of welt first attached to the shoe. ln these figures the rod and angle bracket on which the carrier plate is mounted and most of the other parts are identified by numerals the same as employed in connection with Figs. l to l0 inclusive. Thr carrier plate, however, is indicated at 134' and is formed with an undercut surface 136 into which fits a rectangular head 138 of a pivot 140 extending through a slot 142 in the plate and into a loose fitting passage in the link 74. The lower end of the pivot 140 is surrounded by a clamp collar 144 for retaining it in place. The upper surface of the rectangular head 133 is formed with a series of teeth 146 engaged by similar teeth formed on the under surface of an arm 1.48 rotatably mounted on a pin 150 passing through upwardly extending flanges of a channel block 152 secured by screws 154 (Fig. l2) to the upper surface of the carrier plate i3d. The flanges of the block 152 take up the side thrust imparted to the arm 143 when the teeth on' the arm engage those on the head 13S. When the arm is moved against the hea 133 the parts are locked the carrier plate is held against lateral movement so that the welt cutting knife may be operated in a desired manner. in other respects the carrier plate 13d is the same as the plate 56 and the mounting for the knife 160 alsocorresponds with that in the previous figures.

Instead of employing a one-piece angle rod for the hand operated knife actuating member, the construction shown in Figs. ll to 13, inclusive, comprises a downwardly extending bar fdo secured by the clamp bolts on the knife actuating lever 103. At its lower end the bar 156 has an enlargement through which passes a sleeve 15S extending at right angles to the bar. Within the sleeve 158 is rotatably mounted a shaft 16%) having secured at one end a hand knob 161 and at the other end at the opposite side of the bar 156 an arm 162. The arm 162 is normally drawn into engagement with the enlarged end of a stud 16d secured in the bar 156 by a spring 166 stretched between a pin on the arm 162 and a pin on the stud 164. The arm 162 has passing through it one end of a Bowden wire 163 secured thereto by a set screw 170 and the stud 164 has secured to it one end of a sheath 172 surrounding the Bowden wire. The other end of the Bowden wire passes through the plate 134 and the lock arm 143. The Bowden wire has fixed at its extreme end a bead 174' which bears against the lock arm 143. Between the lock arm 14? and a recess in the carrier plate 134 is a compression spring 176 (see Fig. l2) which holds the arm normallyout of engagement with the teeth 146 on the head 138 of the stud. The outer end of the sheath 172 bears against the underside of the plate 134 thus causing the bead 174 to press down on the arm 14S to bring it into engagement with the teeth 146 when the knob 161 is rotated.

The operation of the machine equipped with the quick locking carrier plate 134 is similar to that employed with the machine having the carrier plate 56, except that after the machine has been brought to rest in advance of the welt end first attached to the shoe, as in Fig. l, the supplemental welt guide is moved freely along the welt 14 to bring the slot 126 into exact alinement with the first end of welt regardless of the stopping position of the shoe in the machine. Movement of the supplemental welt guide along the Welt is accomplished merely by pushing or pulling the knob 161 to swing thc carrier plate 134 about the pin 53. When the proper position of the supplemental welt guide is reached, the knob 161 is rotated to lock the carrier plate and supplemental welt guide against further swinging movement and the knob is then moved rearwardly to sever the welt as before.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and a particular embodiment having been described what is claimed is.

1. A shoe machine having a main frame, feeding and fastening devices in the frame, a main shaft for operating the feeding and fastening devices and a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into said point of operation,` in combination with a supplemental weltguide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide for yielding movement toward and from the shoe, independent of the position of the main welt guide to enable the operated upon close to the point ofnoperation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into said point of operation, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide for yielding movement toward and from the shoe, independent of the position of the main welt guide to enable the supplemental guide to follow the contour ofthe shoe as it is fed past the main welt guide, and mounting means on the supplemental guide for directing a knife against the welt passing through the supplemental guide to sever it without withdrawing the 'shoe from the machine.

3. A shoe machine having a main frame, feeding and fastening devices in the frame, a` main shaft for operating the feeding and fastening devices and amain Welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt `into said point of operation, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide for yielding movement toward and from the shoe, independent of the position of the main welt guide to enable thetsupplemental guide to follow the contour of the shoe as it is fed past the main Welt guide, and mounting means on the supplemental guide for directing a knife against the welt passing through the supplemental guide to sever it without withdrawing the shoe from the machine, said mounting means comprising a member rotatably mounted about a fixed center on the supplemental guide and formed with a slot in which the knife slides during its cutting stroke.

4. A shoe machiney having a main frame, feeding and fastening devices in the frame, a main shaft for operating the feeding and fastening devices and a main welt guide mounted in the framelfor engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt yinto said point of operation, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide for yielding movement toward and from the shoe, independent of the position of the main welt guide to enable the supplemental guide to follow the contour of the shoe as it is fed past the main welt guide, mounting means on the supplemental guide for directing a knife against the welt passing through the supplemental guide to sever it without withdrawing the shoe from the machine, said mounting means comprising a member rotatably mounted about a fixed center on the supplemental guide and formed with a slot in which the knife slides during its cutting stroke, an arm to which the knife is clamped and a lever on which the arm is pivotally mounted for swinging movement to actuate the knife toward and from the welt in the supplemental guide. i

5. A shoe machine having a main frame, feeding and fastening devices in the frame, a main shaft for operating the feeding and fastening devices and a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into said point of operation, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide for yielding movement toward and from the shoe, independent of the position of the main welt guide to enable the supplemental guide to follow the contour of the shoe as itris fed past the main welt guide, mounting means d'r the supplemental. guide for directing a knife against the welt passing through the supplemental guide to sever it without withdrawing the `shoe from the machine, said mounting means comprising a member rotatably mounted about a fixed center on the supplemental guide and formed with a slot in which the knife slides during its cutting stroke, an arm to which the knife is clamped, a lever on which the arm is pivotally mounted for swinging movement to actuate the knife toward and from the welt in the supplemental guide, and means for shifting the fulcrum of the knife actuating lever with respect to the supplemental guide to change the angle at which the knife cuts the welt.

6. A shoe machine having a main frame, feeding and fastening devices in the frame, a main shaft for operating the feeding and fastening devices and a main Welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into said point of operation, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide for yielding movement toward and from the shoe, independent of the position of the main welt guide to enable the supplemental guide to follow the contour of the shoe as it is fed past the main welt guide, and means acting on the welt in the supplemental welt guide for performing an auxiliary operation on the welt before the point of operation of the fastening devices is reached.

7. A shoe machine having a main Vframe, feeding and fastening devices in the frame, a main shaft for operating the feeding and fastening devices and a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into said point of operation, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide for yielding movement toward and from the shoe, independent of the position of the main welt guide to enable the supplemental guide to follow the contour of the shoe as it is fed past the main welt guide, means for acting on the welt' in the supplemental welt guide for performing an auxiliary operation on the welt before the point of operation of the fastening devices is reached, and means for locking the supplemental welt guide against yielding movement toward and from the shoe while the auxiliary operation performing means is acting.

8. A shoe machine having a main frame, feeding and fastening devices in the frame, a main Shaft for operating the feeding and fastening devices and a main Welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into said point of operation, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide for yielding movement toward and from the shoe, independent of the position of the main welt guide to enable the supplemental guide to follow the contour of the shoe as it is fed past the main welt guide, means'acting on the welt in the supplemental welt guide for performing an auxiliary operation on the welt before the point of operation of the fastening devices is reached, a hand operated member connected to the auxiliary means to actuate it and means for locking the supplemental welt guide against yielding movement toward and from a shoe while the hand operated member is being operated.

9. A shoe machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a sewing shaft for operating the stitch forming devices, driving and stopping mechanism for rotating the sewing shaft, a treadle rod for controlling the driving and stopping mechanism, and a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide along the line of a seam inserted by the stitch forming devices in advance of the main welt guide and arranged for yielding -movement toward and from the shoe as it is fedlpast the main welt guide, and means actuated by the treadle rod for locking the supplemental welt guide against yielding movement toward and from a shoe.

10. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a sewing shaft for operating the stitch forming devices, driving and stopping mechanism for rotating the sewing shaft, a treadle rod for controlling the driving and stopping mechanism, and a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide along the line of a seam inserted by the stitch forming devices in advance of the main welt guide and arranged for yielding movement toward and from the shoe as it is fed past the main welt guide, a knife mounted for movement in the supplemental welt guide to cut the welt in close proximity to the shoe, a hand operated member connected to the knife to actuate it through its cutting stroke, and means actuated by the hand operated member for locking the supplemental welt guide against movement independently of the main welt guide.

ll. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main sewing shaft for operating the stitch forming devices and a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, in combination with a supplemental Welt guide mounted along the line of a seam inserted by the stitch forming devices in advance of the main welt guide, means acting on the welt in the supplemental welt guide for performing an auxiliary operation on the welt before it enters the main welt guide and a hand operated member for moving the supplemental welt guide toward and from the main welt guide.

l2. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main sewing shaft for actuating the stitch forming devices and a main welt guide mounted in the frame, in combination with a supplemental welt guide, a knife mounted on the supplemental welt guide to cut the welt running therethrough, a carrier for the supplemental welt guide and a pair of parallel links pivotally connecting the carrier to the frame for rectilinear movement toward and from a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices to enable the supplemental guide to follow the curvature of the shoe as it is fed along the main welt guide.

13. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a main sewing shaft for actuating the stitch forming devices and -a main welt guide mounted in the frame, in combination with a supplemental welt guide, a knife mounted on the supplemental welt guide to cut the welt running therethrough, a carrier for the supplemental welt guide, a pair of parallel links pivotally connecting the carrier to the frame for rectilinear movement toward and from a shoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices to enable the supplemental guide to follow the curvature of the shoe as it is fed along the main welt guide, one of the pivots for one of the carrier links passing through a slot in the carrier to enable it to be shifted along the line of a seam inserted by the stitch forming devices toward and from the main welt guide, and a hand operated member mounted on the carrier for moving the carrier within the limits provided by the slot.

14. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a sewing shaft for operating the stitch forming devices, driving and stopping mechanism for rotating the sewing shaft, a treadle rod for controlling the driving and stopping mechanism, and a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, in combination with a supplemental welt -guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main Welt guide along the line of a seam inserted by the stitch forming devices in advance of the main welt guide and arranged for yielding movement toward and from the shoe as it is fed past the main welt guide, means actuated by the treadle rod for locking the supplemental welt guide against yielding movement toward and from a shoe, said supplemental guide also being movable toward and from the main welt guide and a hand operated member connected to the supplemental guide for moving it toward and from the main welt guide.

l5. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a sewing shaft for operating the stitch forming devices, driving and stopping mechanism for rotating the sewing shaft, a treadle rod for controlling the driving and stopping mechanism, and a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being oper-ated upon close to the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide along the line of a seam inserted by the stitch forming devices in advance of the main welt guide and arranged for yielding movement toward and from the shoe as it is fed past the main welt guide, means actuated by the treadle rod for locking the supplemental welt guide against yielding movement toward and from a shoe, said supplemental guide also being movable toward and from the main welt guide, a hand operated member connected to the supplemental guide for moving it toward and from the main welt guide, and means actuated by the hand operated member for locking the supplemental guide against movement toward and from the main welt guide.

16. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices in the frame, a sewing shaft for operating the stitch forming devices, driving and stopping mechanism for rotating the sewing shaft, a treadle rod for controlling the driving and stopping mechanism, and a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, in combination with a supplemental welt guide mounted in approximate alinement with the main welt guide along the line of a seaml inserted by the stitch forming devices in advance of the main welt guide and arranged for yielding movement toward and from the shoe as it is fed past the main welt guide, means actuated by the treadle rod for locking the supplemental welt guide against yielding movement toward and from a shoe, said supplemental guide also being movable toward and from the main welt guide, a ha-nd operated member connected to the supplemental guide for moving it toward and from the main welt guide, means actuated-by the hand operated member for locking the supplemental guide against movement toward and from the main Welt guide, a knife mounted for movement in the supplemental guide to cut the welt in close proximity to the shoe, and a connection between the hand operated member and the knife for actuating the knife against the welt in the supplemental guide.

17. A shoe machine having a main frame, fastening and feeding devices in the frame, a main shaft for actuating the fastening and feeding devices, a welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with a shoe being operated upon close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into the said point of operation, and a welt cutting knife mounted for reciprocation against the welt in the guide at an angle to the length of the welt, in combination with meansfor changing vthe angle vof the knife with relation to the length of the Welt in the guide.

l-8. A shoe machine having a main frame, fastening and feeding devices in the frame, a main shaft for actu* ating the fastening and feeding devices, a welt guide located close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into said point of operation, a welt cutting knife located along the path of the welt at an angle to the length of the welt, in combination with a plate to which the welt guide is attached mounted on the frame, a lever fulcrumed selectively in one of a number of diierent positions on the plate, and a clamp within which the knife is secured pivotally connected to the lever and arranged for sliding movement across the welt guide in different angular relations to the welt in the guide when the position of the fulcrum for the lever is shifted on the plate.

19. A shoe machine having a main frame, fastening and feeding devices in the frame, a main shaft for actuating the fastening and feeding devices, a welt guide located close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into said point of operation, a welt cutting knife located along the path of the welt at an angle to the length of the welt, in combination with a rod mounted for sliding movement on the frame toward and from a shoe being operated upon, yielding means acting on the rod to press it toward the shoe, a plate to which the welt guide is attached, secured to the rod, and a hand operated member on the plate connected to the knife for actuating it against the welt in the guide.

20. A shoe machine having a main frame, fastening and feeding devices in the frame, a main shaft for actuating the fastening and feeding devices, a welt guide located close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into said point of operation, a welt cutting knife located along the path of the welt at an angle to the length of the welt, in combination with a rod mounted for sliding movement on the frame toward and from a shoe being operated upon, yielding means acting on the rod to press it toward the shoe, a plate to which the welt guide is attached mounted for swinging movement on the rod to enable the welt guide to be moved along the length of the welt toward and from the point of operation of the fastening devices, a hand operated lever fulcrumed on the plate, a clamp within which the knife is secured pivotally connected to the lever and arranged for sliding movement across the welt in the guide, a lock for securing the plate against swinging movement on the rod, and a knob on the hand operated lever connected to the lock to prevent movement of the welt guide along the welt when the lever is operated to actuate the knife across the welt.

21. A shoe machine having a main frame, fastening and feeding devices in the frame, a main shaft for actuating the fastening and feeding devices, a welt guide located close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to direct a welt into said point of operation, a welt cutting knife located along the path of the welt at an angle to the length of the welt, in combination with a rod mounted for sliding movement on the frame toward and from a shoe being operated upon, yielding means acting on the rod to press it toward the shoe, a plate to which the welt guide is attached mounted for swinging movement on the rod to enable the welt guide to be moved along the length of the welt toward and from the point of operation of the fastening devices, a hand operated lever fulcrurned on the plate, a clamp within which the knife is secured pivotally connected to the lever and arranged for sliding movement across the welt in the guide, a lock for securing the plate against swinging movement on the rod, a rotatable knob on the lever and a flexible cable connection between the knob and the lock to lock the plate against swinging movement on the rod during movement of the lever in actuating the knife, the knob being moved bodily as the lever is operated about its fulcrum on the plate.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,683,660 Epplcr Sept. 11, 1928 1,837,756 Carlson Dec. 22, 1931 2,388,245 Ashworth Nov. 6, 1945 

